How to Build a Foldable Hammock Stand


Lounging in a hammock is the perfect way to relax—if you have just the right pair of trees or supports to hang it from. If you don’t, this folding stand will do the trick. It folds up flat for easy storage, and large casters make it easy to move from the yard back to the garage. We built the stand from Douglas fir, which is pretty heavy. Using cedar will decrease the weight but doubles the cost.

Tools Required

  1. 1-1/4-in. Forstner bit
  2. 1/2-in. spade bit
  3. 9/16-in. spade bit
  4. Chisel
  5. Circular saw
  6. Clamps
  7. Drill
  8. Extension bit
  9. Hacksaw
  10. Mallet
  11. Miter saw (optional)

Materials Required

  1. 1/2” nuts
  2. 1/2” x 10” eye bolts (2)
  3. 1/2” x 16” threaded rod (2)
  4. 1/2” x 8” carriage bolts (6)
  5. 1/2” x 8” eye bolts (2)
  6. 2″ washer-head screws
  7. 4” casters (2)
  8. 4×4 Douglas fir (6 – 8’ boards)
  9. lock washers and washers
  10. Wood glue

Cutting List

Project Plans

Project step-by-step (7)

Step 1 Crosscut 4x4s to length

Crosscut the 4x4s to length based on the dimensions in the Cutting List above. Cut a 45-degree angle on one end of each of the props (B), making them 20 in. from the end to the point of the angle cut. Round the ends of all the parts with a sander. Never used a miter saw before? It’s easy! We’ll walk you through it here.

Step 2 Drill the holes for the arms

Lay out all the parts, except the legs, on a workbench or sawhorses. Locate the holes throughout the rails (A). Glue and clamp the blocks (E) to the adjacent rail. Drill 1-1/4-in.-diameter counterbores 1/2 in. deep with a Forstner bit into the interior face of the arms (C) to accept the carriage bolt heads. Use a 1/2-in. drill bit to finish the holes through the arms and rails. Fasten the arms to the rails with carriage bolts, flat washers, lock washers and nuts.

Step 3 Combine the two halves

Clamp all parts together, except the legs. Drill a 9/16-in. hole to accept the threaded rod. Drill from both sides to ensure an accurate hole. Insert the threaded rod and fasten with nuts, flat washers and lock washers. Repeat for the other threaded rod. Trim the rod to the final length with a hacksaw.

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Step 4 Mark and cut the arm notches

Unfold the props (B) and arms (C). Clamp them so that the prop is directly upright and mark a 1/2-in.-deep notch to accept the end of the prop. Unclamp the parts and return them to the closed position. Slightly raise the arm with a scrap board. Cut a series of kerfs using a circular saw set to a 1/2-in. depth. Clean up the notch with a chisel.

Step 5 Create the pin holes

Return the props and arms to the open position and clamp together. Drill a 9/16-in. the hole through the arm and prop. Place the 8-in. eye bolts through the hole to hold the stand open while in use.

Step 6 Attach the legs

Close the assembly and clamp the legs into their closed location. Using 4×4 offcuts as spacers, locate one leg 3-1/2 in. from the end of the assembly and the other leg 7 in. from the end. The legs are offset because they cross each other as they open to give more stability and conserve space. Drill 1-1/4-in.-diameter counterbores 1/2 in. deep to accept the carriage bolt heads. Drill a 1/2-in. hole the rest of the way through the legs and all the way through the rails (A). Attach the legs to the bottom side of the assembly with carriage bolts, flat washers, lock washers and bolts.